The best skincare to use to soothe a rosacea flare-up (2024)

It was the most Googled skin condition in the UK last year (above hyperpigmentation, wrinkles and dry skin) and is estimated to affect 10% of us, with the sunnier months seeing a spike in searches. Rosacea quandaries are on the rise, and it’s likely women doing the asking, seeing as they’re more likely to be affected than men according to experts at The British Skin Foundation. It’s thought that increases in the UV index could be partly responsible for the surge in interest in rosacea at this time of year, as both sun exposure and heat are common rosacea triggers. Personalised prescription skincare platform Dermatica report dramatic rises in average monthly sign-ups to its rosacea treatment pathway from April onwards.

April also marks Rosacea Awareness Month, an initiative run for over 30 years by Rosacea.org in the US and championed in the UK by influencer Lex Gillies. This year’s focus is on the importance of skincare in rosacea treatment, a subject that’s thorny to say the least given that rosacea can often be mistaken for other skin conditions such as acne and dermatitis. To make matters more complex, ingredients frequently used to address these can aggravate rosacea, so it’s all the more important to seek a medical diagnosis if you suspect you have it.

What does rosacea look and feel like?

There are four subtypes of rosacea, with the most common form, erythematotelangiectatic rosacea, causing itching, burning, flushing, persistent redness and enlarged or broken blood vessels, most often affecting the cheeks, forehead, nose and chin. In papulopustular rosacea, inflamed bumps appear on the skin (but crucially without the blackheads or cysts that can accompany acne), while ocular rosacea involves inflammation, redness, dryness and swelling around the eyes. The rarest form of rosacea, phymatous rosacea, is most common in men and is characterised by bumpy, thickened skin, typically around the nose.

How do I know if I have rosacea?

Due to the overlap in symptoms with other conditions, nothing compares to an initial in-person appointment with a dermatologist or health care professional according to Dr Anjali Mahto. ‘It’s not unusual for me to see four to six patients in a single week who’ve been diagnosed with acne by an online service, when they actually have rosacea’, she says. ‘Their skin is in an awful state, and we come up with an action plan to get it back on track.’

Treatments depend on your specific rosacea subtype (joy of joys, they can overlap) and include prescription creams such as ivermectin and azelaic acid, antibiotics like metronidazole and even retinoids, although always under the care of a medical professional as they can cause rosacea symptoms to worsen if used incorrectly. Once inflammation has been addressed, laser therapy like IPL and BBL can reduce redness and broken capillaries.

Skincare routines for rosacea

Speaking of soothing inflammation, a simple, gentle skincare regime can not only enhance the effects of prescription and in-clinic treatments but also help to keep rosacea flare-ups under control (or even prevent them altogether). The sun’s not the only culprit when it comes to said flare-ups; hot drinks, spicy food, exercise, stress, alcohol and sudden changes in temperature all have a rep for making rosacea worse, but that doesn’t mean you need to unplug your kettle out or ditch the gym. What triggers your rosacea might not do so for someone else, and vice versa, so keeping a journal to track your symptoms can be helpful in identifying your unique pattern of inflammation, as can using the right skincare can help to alleviate rosacea symptoms.

Dr Matho advises avoiding ‘fragrance, harsh exfoliants and anything containing menthol, peppermint and eucalyptus as these are known irritants.’ The National Rosacea Society cites alcohol and witch hazel as potential rosacea triggers, while streamlining your skincare routine to reduce the chances of irritation is also recommended. Dr Stefanie Williams, dermatologist and founder of London’s Eudelo clinic and Delo rX skincare, advises ‘sticking to a sensible number of layers; applying layer upon layer of skincare almost certainly compromises optimal absorption of active ingredients and could even risk the interaction of some products’, she says. ‘My rule of thumb is three multifunctional products.'

Dr Mahto suggests opting for fragrance-free skincare and light, soothing cleansers and moisturisers that protect the skin barrier, ideally containing anti-inflammatory ingredients such as niacinamide. Azelaic acid is also available over the counter in lower potencies than on prescription, but it’s still effective for ‘reducing inflammation, calming irritation and helping to improve redness caused by rosacea’ according to Dr Sam Bunting, dermatologist and founder of Dr Sam’s. Unsurprisingly, a daily SPF of at least 30 is a must; Dr Mahto advocates physical formulas over chemical sunscreens to reduce the likelihood of reactions. Finally, skincare with a green tint can counteract redness. If in doubt, patch test products first.

For rosacea-friendly skincare, look no further.

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A moisturising glycerin and ceramide-based formula helps to replenish the skin barrier while an amino acid enriched cleansing agent whisks away makeup, SPF and pollutants in one step, minimising the need for rubbing and scrubbing (both can aggravate rosacea).

This cooling skin spritz ‘sandwiches’ in moisture and takes the heat out of flare-ups. It’s a deskside must-have for warmer months.

A higher percentage azelaic acid than most available over the counter, Dr. Catriona Maybury, Dermatica's Medical Lead, highlights that the new formula allows those with rosacea ‘to incorporate azelaic acid into their skincare routine at a milder strength than on prescription while still supercharging their results.’

Simple, affordable and with a very subtle green tint to neutralise redness. It layers well with makeup and sunscreen without pilling too.

Combines 10% azelaic acid with niacinamide, plant-based retinol alternative bakuchiol and vitamin C to address bumps and redness while evening out skin tone to reduce your likelihood of post flare-up hyperpigmentation.

Don’t be alarmed by the mint green shade; this silky serum sheers out on application and contains peptides and calming colloidal oat to boost your skin barrier, making rosacea incidences less likely.

As well as azelaic acid and niacinamide, this multitasking hydrator is formulated with calming herb centella asiatica and a fermented cherry blossom and sake extract to smooth skin texture.

Lightweight, fragrance-free and packed with moisture-binding hyaluronic acid, vitamin E and antioxidant squalane to hydrate skin and defend against external aggressors.

This deep green lotion moisturises, primes, colour corrects and protects skin from UV damage. It’s a big hit on the GH beauty desk and means you can be less heavy handed with foundation application when redness strikes.

If you favour a mineral sunscreen, this unscented option glides on smoothly and leaves no trace (mineral sunscreens are notorious for leaving a white cast, especially on darker skin tones).